Walk around Sicily
I came to Sicily, where Katya and Andrey called me, local residents who have a small travel agency in the south, and it turned out that everything seemed to be the way it was. When we wandered through the narrow streets of Sicilian towns, all the time it seemed that Mikey with two sturdy guys with rifles on their shoulders just around the corner. It seemed that nothing had changed. The same women in black, the same houses as the swallow's nests, the same narrow paths in the mountains, the same cypresses. The trip was very fast, several places traveled around the day, but in general it is necessary to live there longer, and live slowly, just like Sicilians live far from the charms of globalization, remaining in their own world, separated from the rest by the Strait of Messina. This is what surprised most of all - the lack of difference between what you know about the place and what it represents now.
1. This is Burgio, a city in the south-east of Sicily, 60 km. from Palermo. Three and a half thousand inhabitants. Founded ... no one knows exactly when it was founded, but at the end of the 12th century, the mayor of Burgio was already a member of the Sicilian parliament under King Aragon and Navarre Pedro I. At that time, Sicily was one of the most densely populated places in the world.
2In the municipality we were met by the mayor of the city, Vito Ferranteli. He immediately called his staff, the office was filled with smiling Sicilians, who began to loudly discuss what to show in their city to a visiting photojournalist.
3. There are almost no tourists, time has stopped and stopped.
5. The appearance of the old part of the city has not changed since the XVI-XVII centuries. This is how Burdge was then. Now you can buy a house of the seventeenth century for five thousand euros.
6. The mayor gave us a companion to show interesting. It turned out that in addition to churches and museums in the city there is a workshop for making bells. Works here since 1500, imagine.
7. There are only five such workshops in Italy, one in Sicily, in Burgio. At one time, Mussolini removed all the bells from the Italian churches and let them, like Russian Peter I, melt down. In Burdge they make bells using the same technology as in ancient times, it is very similar to how Tarkovsky showed in the film Andrei Rublev. This is a difficult and painstaking work.
8. On the slab with a pole, which in Russia is called “circling,” a core is made that repeats the internal profile of the bell (it is also called a dummy).
9.Then, using these metal profiles and wax, they make a bell shape out of wax, put a layer of clay on top, creating the shape of a future bell.
10. It turns out the clay casing of the bell, from which, after drying, the wax is smelted.
11. The patterns are an absolutely amazing tool. The sound of the bell depends on its shape. This piece makes a bell sounding like a note in B-flat. Not just si, but b-flat! It somehow fits into the heads
12. These are bells casings ready for casting.
13. Bells are decorated with ornaments and patterns. Billets for them are on the shelves in the workshop.
16. This is the main thing - the furnace and the pit where the clay casing is placed. This pit was dug in the XVI century. In the furnace for about five hours preparing a bronze alloy with the addition of tin. The casing is placed in a pit and covered with earth. Metal is poured from the furnace into the casing.
17. And here is the result - the finished bell. We, unfortunately, were on that day when no one was working, but in general the master invited us to look at the workflow. "Come, we will always be happy." 50-70 bells are made here every year and you can always come to become a member of this witchcraft.
18. A stone's throw from the bell workshop of the church of San Giuseppe, 1623
20.Bouquet for Don Vittorio's birthday. All the time you feel inside the Italian cinema.
28. From 966 to 1072 there was a Muslim state in Sicily. These are his remains in the city of Burjau.
29. There are such narrow streets that there is no place for garbage containers, even the smallest. Therefore, local people hang bags of garbage on the ropes, and scavengers collect them in the morning.
30. On the way to Changchanu.
31. Small fires are visible all the time - dry grass and shrubs burn. They are not extinguished - there is no need and no one.
33. Well, this is Chanchan. 4000 people live here. In the XIII century on this place was the city of La Ferla, which was completely destroyed by an earthquake. For four hundred years there was nothing here, and then people came and now it is believed that Changchan appeared in 1646 as the possession of the family of feudal Joppolo. A few years ago, this town was shown on British TV and foreigners started to come here, who began to buy real estate. Such is the Sicilian phenomenon.
35. Here are the same houses of the XVII century, as in Burgio, but local construction companies took over them and began to rebuild them for sale, once there was a demand.
36. Local builders take the wreck from the Middle Ages and make them such houses.An interesting detail - the stones of this pavement are made from the ashes of Etna volcano.
37. This is how the dwelling of a resident of Chanchana at the end of the 17th century looks like after modern renovation.
38. Here the walls are not painted yet, waiting for the wishes of the owner.
39. A swallow's nest was left in the room for an unknown year of construction.
40. This is a lower level with two rooms and a bathroom.
41. This is a bathroom. On the roof of the house - a large porch, a hundred meters. The cost of such a home is about 45,000 euros.
42. These houses are also repaired and sold to the Englishman and two Poles.
43. A curious Sicilian grandmother immediately appeared on the appearance of strangers. "Who are these people, what are they doing here?" Everything is very friendly and bitter.
44. This is generally a very strange feeling - to come to the town, where everyone knows each other and you find yourself under scrutiny. There are no tourists here and the appearance of an unfamiliar person is of genuine interest. At the cafes sit classic Italian grandfathers and talk about something of their own. Surely about politics.
45. We, under the watchful eyes of the locals, sat down in a cafe near the clock tower. This woman came from Dublin with a lovely friend. He lives in Changchan for several years.
46. Grandfathers about something of their own.
48. The local population.
49. We talk with Carmelo, who is engaged in the repair of old houses. They talked about Berlusconi. “If he returns to politics, we will again vote for him, because he is a strong man, a real Italian.” Katya on the right, Andrei away. The guys came here to study and fell in love with Sicily for real. They learned the language, they are very respected and loved there. They generally treat Russians very well, consider them to be similar to Italians.
51. This is Chanchan from above. This is Sicily.
To be continued, there will still be many interesting things.
Thanks to Kate and Andrew for the invitation. I was completely fascinated by Sicily, which they showed me. There, by the way, now my friend is waiting for me, whom I want to take to my place - the kitty Marcus found on the road has come to home, we have become very close friends. He still lives with Katy and Andrei (by the way, there are two more dogs and three cats), I hope to take him to my place.